When an invitation for a wedding or a holiday party
proclaims a black tie dress code, everyone knows that top-notch formality is in
order. White tie, requiring tailed tuxedos, is the only more formal designation
in existence, and is relatively rarely used. Just what does this dress code
required, and how did black ties come to symbolize the second-highest level of
formality?
History of the Black Tie Dress Code
The Black Tie Guide’s detailed history of men’s formal
fashion traces the origins of the black tie dress code back to Victorian
Britain. Since Britain led the world in many respects, including fashion, at
that point in history, America was eager to follow the trends being set across
the pond. Adhering to a separate, formal dress code for evening activities,
including dinners, dates back much further, but the most recent recognizable
precedent for the current “black tie” and “white tie” designations can be found
in the late 1800s. Societal expectations of men’s formalwear had changed
frequently up to that point, but the idea that gentlemen should adhere to an
agreed upon formal dress code remained consistent. Donning evening wear prepared
men not only to appear polished at dinner, but at any social event that may
have followed, such as a trip to the opera.
Gradually, comfort had become a slightly greater priority in
men’s dress, and in the 1860s, the dinner jacket began to gain acceptance in
more casual evening situations. This tailless jacket would later be dubbed the
tuxedo in America, derived from the New York city in which the garment made its
debut. Wary of this less formal alternative to tails, the tuxedo was designated
as the informal alternative to the formal tailed jacket. Thus, the two levels
of formal dress, now known as black tie and white tie, were born.
Of course, fashion went through many phases, and by WWI, the
tuxedo was generally accepted at almost all formal evening events, no longer
deemed informal. As dress became more and more casual, the tuxedo was not
expected outside of special occasions. The tuxedo and the accompanying black
accessories had become reserved for formal occasions, much as it is seen today.
Definition of Black Tie
Since the phrase “black tie” has been used for over a
century, the exact meaning of the phrase has evolved, and it still may mean
slightly different things in different geographical areas or social circles.
However, there are some elements that most experts still seem agreed upon. One
of those elements is that the dress code should generally be reserved for
evening events taking place after 6:00 p.m.
The terminology could be a little misleading, because a
black tie dress code implies much more than simply donning a black neck tie. In
fact, etiquette expert Emily Post clarifies that the appropriate black neckwear
for a black tie event is technically a black bowtie. She even specifies that
said black bowtie should be either twill, shiny satin, or silk. The Black Tie
Guide, however, indicates that a black long tie is also acceptable. In addition
to their black neck wear, guests are also expected to don the following attire:
A black tuxedo, white dress shirt, black dress socks and shoes, and a black vest
or cummerbund. Some sources indicate that a midnight blue tuxedo may also fit
the dress code. Accessories such as cuff links should also be black or dark in
color.
Strict adherents to dress code traditions express even more
detailed expectations, such as the fabric and cut of the tuxedo, the material
of the shoes, and the style of cuffs, but the basic requirements have been
captured. According to Emily Post, some variants on the dress code include the
summer variation, where a white coat may be substituted; creative black tie,
where some liberty may be taken with shirt or bowtie and cummerbund color; and
black tie optional, where a dark suit and subtle tie, such as a navy blue or
dark gray tie, may be substituted for a tuxedo. Etiquette experts agree that if
a host specifically includes a black tie denotation on an invitation, guests
are obliged to either acquiesce to the dress standard or decline the
invitation. Be a gentleman and put on a black tie and all that goes with it.
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